Lagodekhi National Park 2026: Trails, Black Rock Lake, Fees

From Tbilisi

158 km

Protected since

1912

Black Rock Lake

48 km, 3 days

Shelter

30 GEL

Lagodekhi sits at the far end of the Alazani valley, where the vineyards stop and the forest climbs straight up the Caucasus. It gets a fraction of Kazbegi's visitors, and the trails show it: forest walking in deep shade, rivers and waterfalls, and one serious mountain route to a lake on the Russian border. It fits well at the end of a Kakheti trip; our Kakheti guide has the rest of the region, and our best hikes guide compares it with the other mountain areas.

What Lagodekhi is

The Lagodekhi Protected Areas are two reserves split in 2003: a strict nature reserve of 19,749 hectares, open mostly for research, and a managed reserve of 4,702 hectares with the tourist trails, together running from 590 m to 3,500 m on the south slope of the Caucasus. The land was first protected in 1912, under the Russian Empire. About 70 percent is forest, mostly Oriental beech with hornbeam and maple, and the reserve is known for East Caucasian tur, chamois and red deer, with lynx, wolf and brown bear among the predators. The largest of its glacial lakes, Lake Grdzeli, the Black Rock Lake, is 14 m deep and lies on the Russian border.

The five trails

You walk only the marked trails; the strict reserve is closed to visitors. The distances and times below are the agency's own listing.

Black Rock Lake

This is the route people come for. It leaves from the administration building and climbs through hornbeam stands, across the Lagodekhi river and up the beech-covered ridge, with the Alazani valley and the Caucasus opening up as you rise. The agency lays it out over three days.

The shelter sleeps 16 at 30 GEL a person and is basic: bring a sleeping bag, food and a stove, or hire the bag and a tent at the visitor centre. Register with a copy of your ID before you start, and carry your passport as well, because the route passes a border police post near the lake. Horses can be booked for 100 GEL on the mountain service. The agency grades the route average; it is a long, steep climb and descent, and trekking poles earn their weight on day three.

The waterfalls

The two waterfall walks are the day hikes, and they start in different places. Ninoskhevi, the Great Waterfall, begins at the Gurgeniani information centre and follows the Ninoskhevi river on a narrow path past smaller falls and big boulders to a 40 m fall, which the agency calls one of the most beautiful in Georgia; the agency lists 8.5 km and 4 to 6 hours. The path stays close to the river, so skip it after heavy rain. Black Grouse, or Rocho, starts at the main visitor centre, crosses the Shromiskhevi and follows the Shroma valley through old hornbeam and mixed beech forest to a 6 m fall, 9.5 km and 3 to 5 hours. It is the smaller waterfall and the easier logistics.

Machi Fortress

The Machi trail starts at the reserve's post in Matsimi village, 7 km by road from Lagodekhi, and follows the Bneli Khevi, the dark gorge, through hornbeam and moss-covered rock before climbing to an eleventh-century fortress with its walls, a small family church and underground passages, now deep in the forest. It is 10.5 km and 3 to 4 hours, and the only day route you can do on horseback: a horse is 70 GEL. Bring a copy of your ID to register.

Registration and fees

Register at the visitor centre, 197 Vashlovani Street in Lagodekhi, before any trail. The Agency of Protected Areas' services and fees page lists no entry ticket, only services: the tourist shelter at 30 GEL a person (20 for pupils and students), a campsite place at 5 GEL, a picnic table at 20, and hire of a tent (20 GEL), sleeping bag (10), mat (5) and backpack (5). The page gives no opening hours, so arrive in the morning and phone the visitor service in advance for Black Rock Lake.

When to go

The reserve is open all year, but Black Rock Lake only from June to October, and June to September is the safer window for the high route. The forest walks are good from late spring, when the rivers and waterfalls run highest, to October, when the beech turns and the Kakheti harvest is on down the valley. The steep trails are dangerous in wet weather, so move a day rather than walk in rain. For the rest of the country by month, see our best time to visit guide.

Getting there

Where to sleep

Lagodekhi town has three dozen places on Booking.com, mostly family guesthouses, a couple with their own wine cellars, and a handful of hotels. Sleep here the night before a trail so you can register when the visitor centre opens.

What it costs

At the National Bank's rate on 30 September 2026, 30 GEL is about $12 and 212 GEL about $81.

Mistakes

Keep planning

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