Every Georgian knows Borjomi. Not the town — the water. That slightly salty, volcanic mineral water in the distinctive green bottle has been a dining table staple across the former Soviet Union for over a century. But the town itself? Most visitors to Georgia skip it entirely, and honestly, that's part of its charm. Borjomi is the rare Georgian destination that feels genuinely unhurried — a small spa town wedged into a forested gorge, backed by one of Europe's largest national parks, and still carrying faded echoes of Russian aristocrats who summered here in the 1800s.
It's not flashy. The main strip is short, the nightlife is nonexistent, and the biggest excitement on any given evening is watching locals fill plastic bottles at the mineral spring. But that's exactly the point. You come to Borjomi to slow down, soak in sulfur pools under the trees, hike through virgin forest, and drink water straight from the earth that people have been traveling to taste for 200 years.
This guide covers everything you need for a visit: what to see, where to stay, how to get there, and the honest truth about what's worth your time and what isn't.
Quick Facts
Why Visit Borjomi
Borjomi isn't a bucket-list destination in the way Kazbegi or Svaneti are. Nobody puts "drink mineral water in a small Georgian town" on their Instagram wishlist. But it fills a role that those dramatic mountain destinations can't: it's a place to actually relax.
After a few days of Tbilisi's intensity — the driving, the noise, the nonstop socializing — Borjomi feels like someone turned the volume down. The air is cooler (it sits in a gorge at about 800 meters), the forests are dense, and the whole town has a gentle, almost European spa-town energy. Think Karlovy Vary but with less polish and more soul.
🌿 The Nature
Borjomi-Kharagauli National Park has 12 marked trails through virgin forest. From easy day walks to multi-day treks with shelters.
♨️ The Sulfur Pools
Open-air pools fed by natural hot springs, tucked into the forest at the end of the gorge. Around 28-38°C year-round.
🏛️ The History
Romanov summer palaces, Tsarist-era architecture, Soviet mosaics — 200 years of layered history in one small town.
💧 The Water
Taste Borjomi straight from the source. It's warm, salty, and slightly sulfurous — nothing like the bottled version.
Things to Do in Borjomi
Borjomi Central Park
The park is the heart of Borjomi and the first thing you should do. It stretches along the Borjomula River gorge from the town center deep into the forest, and it's where you'll find the famous mineral spring, the old bottling factory, a cable car, swimming pools, and the trailhead to the sulfur pools.
The entrance is marked by a grand colonnade — very Soviet, very photogenic. Inside, the park is surprisingly well-maintained: paved paths, benches, a few cafes, and a small amusement area for kids. It gets busy on summer weekends with Georgian families, but on weekday mornings it's peaceful.
Park Entrance
Central Park has a small entrance fee (around 2-3 GEL). Guests of the Crowne Plaza hotel get free entry with their room key. The park is open year-round, though some facilities close in winter.
Ekaterina's Spring (The Mineral Water Source)
About 200 meters inside the park, you'll find a covered pavilion over the original spring — Ekaterina's Spring, named after Grand Duke Michael's daughter. This is where Borjomi mineral water comes from, and you can drink it for free, straight from the tap.
Fair warning: it tastes nothing like the bottled water you've been drinking at restaurants. The fresh stuff is warm (around 35°C), noticeably salty, and has a strong mineral tang that catches you off guard the first time. Some people love it immediately. Most need a few sips. Bring a water bottle — locals fill up liter jugs and take it home. The water loses its carbonation within hours, though, so drink it fresh.
The Sulfur Pools
The open-air sulfur pools sit about 3 kilometers up the gorge from the park entrance. You can walk (a pleasant 30-40 minute stroll along the river), take one of the park's golf carts, or hire a jeep if you're feeling extravagant (around 300 GEL, which is absurd — just walk).
There are three pools: a warm semicircular one closest to the spring (the hottest, around 38°C), a larger rectangular pool, and a smaller children's pool. The water is naturally heated, sulfur-rich, and slightly milky blue-green. The setting — surrounded by forest, steam rising off the water — is genuinely beautiful.
| Detail | Info |
|---|---|
| Entry Fee | ~5 GEL per person (separate from park entrance) |
| Temperature | 28-38°C depending on pool |
| Facilities | Changing rooms, showers, cafe, free WiFi |
| Best Time | Early morning or weekdays — summer weekends are packed |
| Season | Open year-round (winter is magical — steam + snow) |
Winter Tip
The pools are incredible in winter. Imagine soaking in warm sulfur water while snow falls on the surrounding trees. Far fewer crowds, too. Just bring a towel and prepare for the cold walk back.
Explore the Town
Borjomi's town center is compact — you can walk from one end to the other in 15 minutes. The charm is in the details: crumbling Tsarist-era villas with wooden balconies, Soviet-era mosaics on public buildings, and the general sense that you've stumbled into a place that peaked about a hundred years ago and has been gracefully fading ever since.
The main attractions in town itself:
| Sight | What It Is | Time Needed |
|---|---|---|
| Borjomi Museum | Local history, Romanov artifacts, mineral water exhibits | 45 min |
| Cable Car | Short ride from Central Park to a hilltop viewpoint with a ferris wheel | 30 min |
| Old Bottling Factory | The original Borjomi water factory, now partially restored as a museum | 30 min |
| Bridge of Beauty | Modern pedestrian bridge over the Mtkvari — decent photo spot | 10 min |
| Soviet Mosaics | Scattered on public buildings — the hammer-and-sickle on old City Hall is a standout | 15 min |
The Romanov Palace at Likani
About 3 kilometers south of Borjomi sits the Likani Palace, built for Grand Duke Nicholas Mikhailovich in the 1890s by French-trained architect Leon Benois. It's genuinely beautiful — a blue-and-white villa set in manicured grounds on the riverbank.
The bad news: it's been closed for renovation for years. Security guards patrol the perimeter, and the standard answer to "when will it reopen?" is always "next year." You can glimpse it from the grounds of the Borjomi Likani Health & Spa Centre hotel, or see furniture and artifacts from the palace at the Borjomi Museum. Don't plan your trip around it.
Borjomi-Kharagauli National Park
This is the real reason to spend more than a day in Borjomi. At 104,000 hectares, Borjomi-Kharagauli is one of the largest national parks in Europe and easily the most accessible in Georgia. It was the country's first national park (established 1995) and has 12 well-marked trails ranging from easy 3-hour loops to multi-day treks with overnight shelters.
The landscape is stunning — dense mixed forest, alpine meadows, wildflowers in summer, and the kind of deep, quiet woodland you rarely find in the Caucasus. Unlike the dramatic but exposed mountain trails of Kazbegi or Tusheti, hiking here is all about the forest.
Best Trails
| Trail | Length | Duration | Difficulty | Highlights |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Nikolay Romanov Trail | 13 km | 1 day | Easy-Moderate | Forest walk, panoramic viewpoints, the most popular trail |
| Trail 2 (Likani–Atskuri) | 36 km | 2 days | Moderate | Virgin forest, alpine meadows, overnight shelter at Lomis Mta |
| Trail 3 (Borjomi–Marelisi) | 54 km | 3 days | Hard | Full park traverse, diverse landscapes, remote shelters |
| Trail 6 (Plateau) | 17 km | 1 day | Moderate | Wildflower meadows, panoramic ridge, best in June-July |
Registration Required
You must register at the park office before multi-day hikes (free, but they need your passport info). Day hikes on Trail 1 don't require registration. The park office is in central Borjomi and opens at 9:00 AM. Register the day before if starting early.
Park Rental Prices
| Item | Price |
|---|---|
| Campsite (per person) | 5 GEL |
| Tent rental | 10 GEL |
| Sleeping bag | 5 GEL |
| Horse hire (per day) | 50-60 GEL |
| Bicycle rental | 25 GEL |
| Snowshoes | 15 GEL (first day), 10 GEL additional |
Side Trip: Bakuriani
Bakuriani is a mountain resort town about 30 kilometers from Borjomi, sitting at 1,700 meters. In winter it's Georgia's most popular ski destination (affordable and family-friendly, though don't expect Gudauri-level terrain). In summer it's a cool escape with meadows, horse riding, and mountain biking.
The Kukushka narrow-gauge railway used to connect the two towns — a gorgeous 37-kilometer route that crossed a bridge designed by Gustave Eiffel. Sadly, it's been suspended since 2020 and there are no concrete plans to restart it. To reach Bakuriani now, you'll need a marshrutka or taxi (about 30-40 minutes by road).
The Kukushka Train
The historic narrow-gauge Kukushka ("Cuckoo") train between Borjomi and Bakuriani is not running. It was paused in 2020 and reportedly needs 90 million GEL to restore the infrastructure. Georgian Railways has no current plans to invest. The rolling stock sits at Borjomi station gathering dust.
When to Visit
| Season | Temperature | Vibe | Best For |
|---|---|---|---|
| Spring (Apr–May) | 10-20°C | Flowers, occasional rain | Shoulder season hiking when high mountains are still snowy |
| Summer (Jun–Aug) | 20-30°C | Busy, hot in town, cool in park | Multi-day hikes, family trips — avoid weekends |
| Autumn (Sep–Nov) | 8-18°C | Stunning foliage, fewer tourists | Best overall season — October colors are spectacular |
| Winter (Dec–Mar) | -5 to 5°C | Snow, quiet, magical | Sulfur pools in snow, Bakuriani skiing, photography |
The honest recommendation: October. The deciduous forests around Borjomi explode with color, the crowds are gone, the weather is perfect for hiking, and the sulfur pools feel even better in crisp autumn air. Summer weekends are genuinely overcrowded — ATVs roar through the park trails, the pools are shoulder-to-shoulder, and the small town center feels claustrophobic.
Getting to Borjomi
| From | Transport | Duration | Cost | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Tbilisi | Marshrutka | 2.5-3 hours | 12 GEL | From Didube station, hourly 8am-7pm |
| Tbilisi | Train | 4+ hours | 2-3 GEL | Twice daily, old elektrichka, buy tickets on board |
| Tbilisi | Private transfer | 2-2.5 hours | 100-150 GEL | Book via GoTrip or your hotel — can stop en route |
| Kutaisi | Marshrutka | 3-3.5 hours | 12-15 GEL | May need to transit through Khashuri |
| Batumi | Marshrutka | 4-5 hours | 15-20 GEL | Direct vans available, not as frequent |
Marshrutka Reality Check
Marshrutkas depart when full, not on a fixed schedule. In summer this means you'll barely wait. In winter, you might sit for 30-60 minutes. Bring headphones. The ride itself goes through unspectacular flat terrain via Khashuri — not a scenic route like the Georgian Military Highway.
Where to Stay
Borjomi's accommodation ranges from family guesthouses to a genuine international hotel. Most visitors will be fine in a guesthouse — the hospitality is warm, breakfasts are generous, and you'll spend most of your time outside anyway.
| Category | Price Range | Options | Best For |
|---|---|---|---|
| Budget | 30-60 GEL | Family guesthouses, homestays | Solo travelers, backpackers |
| Mid-Range | 80-150 GEL | Golden Tulip, boutique hotels | Couples, comfort seekers |
| Upscale | 250-400+ GEL | Crowne Plaza, Likani Health & Spa | Families, spa weekends |
Crowne Plaza Borjomi
The town's only international-brand hotel. Pool, spa, good breakfast, and free Central Park entry. Solid if you want comfort without compromise.
Guesthouses
The classic Georgian experience. Hosts cook breakfast, share homemade wine, and practice their English on you. Book via Booking.com — prices are fair and reviews are honest.
Where to Eat
Borjomi's restaurant scene is modest — you'll find Georgian standards (khachapuri, khinkali, grilled meats) done well but without much innovation. The guesthouse meals are often the best option. That said, a few places stand out:
| Restaurant | Known For | Price Range |
|---|---|---|
| Pesvebi | Reliable Georgian food, pleasant outdoor terrace | 15-30 GEL per person |
| Inka Restaurant | River views, decent mtsvadi (grilled meat) | 20-35 GEL per person |
| Cafe Inside Central Park | Basic snacks and coffee, but the setting is lovely | 5-15 GEL |
One honest note: restaurant quality in Borjomi is inconsistent. Google reviews help, but your best meals will likely come from your guesthouse host. If you're staying somewhere with meals included, take them up on it.
Budget Breakdown
2-Day Borjomi Trip (Budget)
This is one of the cheapest worthwhile trips from Tbilisi. Even upgrading to the Crowne Plaza, you'd struggle to spend more than 500 GEL for a two-night weekend — and that includes the spa.
Day Trip or Overnight?
You can technically do Borjomi as a day trip from Tbilisi. The marshrutka takes 2.5 hours each way, leaving you about 4-5 hours in town. That's enough to walk the park, drink from the spring, and have lunch. But you'll miss the sulfur pools (the walk there and back adds 2+ hours), the hiking, and the evening atmosphere.
The better plan: stay one night. Arrive by midday, explore the park and town in the afternoon, soak in the pools, have dinner. Next morning, do a day hike in the national park or head to Bakuriani, then take the afternoon marshrutka back. Two nights is ideal if you want to hike a longer trail.
Day 1
Arrive midday. Central Park, Ekaterina's Spring, old bottling factory, cable car. Walk to sulfur pools, soak until evening. Dinner in town.
Day 2
Morning hike (Nikolay Romanov Trail, 4-5 hours). Lunch, explore town. Afternoon marshrutka back to Tbilisi, or extend to Bakuriani.
The Honest Downsides
Summer Crowds
July-August weekends are genuinely unpleasant. ATVs and jeeps on the park trails, packed sulfur pools, and the town center becomes a traffic jam. Visit midweek or outside summer.
The Kukushka Is Dead
Lots of travel blogs still talk about the scenic train to Bakuriani. It hasn't run since 2020 and probably won't anytime soon. Don't plan around it.
Likani Palace Is Closed
The beautiful Romanov palace has been "under renovation" for years. Don't make it a reason for your visit. You can't get close.
Limited Dining
Food options are basic Georgian standards. No craft cocktails, no fusion cuisine, no third-wave coffee. Eat at your guesthouse — that's where the real food is.
Not Scenic Getting There
Unlike the drive to Kazbegi, the road to Borjomi is flat and boring through Khashuri. The destination is the reward, not the journey.
Faded Grandeur
Borjomi is beautiful in a crumbling sort of way. If you expect a polished European spa town, you'll be disappointed. If you like patina and character, you'll love it.
Common Mistakes
❌ Day-Tripping
Five hours of travel for 4-5 hours in town. Stay overnight — the morning hike alone justifies it.
❌ Visiting Summer Weekends
Go midweek or in October. The difference in atmosphere is night and day.
❌ Skipping the National Park
Many visitors just do the park and pools. The national park trails are the best part of the area — don't miss them.
❌ Planning Around Closed Sights
The Kukushka train and Likani Palace come up in every search result. Neither is available. Focus on what's actually open.
❌ Forgetting a Swimsuit
The sulfur pools require swimwear. There's nowhere convenient to buy one in Borjomi, so bring it.
❌ Paying for a Jeep to the Pools
The 3km walk along the river is pleasant and flat. Don't pay 300 GEL for a jeep unless you have mobility issues.
Combining with Other Destinations
Borjomi sits in the Samtskhe-Javakheti region, which is one of the most underrated parts of Georgia. If you're already coming this way, consider combining it with:
| Destination | Distance from Borjomi | Why Go |
|---|---|---|
| Bakuriani | 30 km (40 min) | Skiing in winter, mountain meadows in summer |
| Vardzia | 100 km (1.5 hours) | Georgia's extraordinary cave city — absolutely worth the detour |
| Akhaltsikhe (Rabati Castle) | 55 km (1 hour) | Restored fortress complex, Ottoman-influenced town |
| Abastumani | 70 km (1.5 hours) | Another old resort town with an astronomical observatory |
A strong 3-4 day southern Georgia loop: Tbilisi → Borjomi (1-2 nights) → Vardzia (day trip) → Akhaltsikhe (1 night) → back to Tbilisi. This covers some of the most interesting and least-touristy parts of the country.
Frequently Asked Questions
Is Borjomi mineral water safe to drink from the spring?
Yes, perfectly safe. It's the same source that's been bottled commercially since 1890. The fresh version is warm and more intensely mineral than the bottled water. Locals drink it daily and attribute all sorts of health benefits to it.
Is one day enough for Borjomi?
For the town and sulfur pools, yes. But you'll miss the national park hiking, which is the best part. One overnight stay is the sweet spot for most visitors. Two nights if you want to do a proper hike.
Can I visit in winter?
Absolutely. The sulfur pools are magical in snow, and you can combine with Bakuriani skiing. Some park trails close in heavy snow, and guesthouse options thin out, but winter Borjomi is genuinely underrated.
Is the Borjomi-Bakuriani train running?
No. The Kukushka narrow-gauge train has been suspended since 2020 with no announced restart date. Take a marshrutka or taxi to Bakuriani instead (30-40 minutes by road).
Do I need a car?
Not for Borjomi itself — everything is walkable. A car is useful for Vardzia, Akhaltsikhe, and the southern Georgia loop, but Borjomi-only trips work perfectly by marshrutka.
Written by The Georgian Guide Team
Based in Tbilisi with years of experience traveling across Georgia. We've visited Borjomi across seasons and watched the town slowly modernize while keeping its old-world character. Our advice comes from repeated visits, not a single afternoon stop.
Last updated: February 2026.
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